Oceanography Curriculum Outline

by Prof. William A. Prothero, Dept. of Geological Sciences


<Curriculum Index><Weekly Assignment Outline>

 III. Waves and Beaches theme

         A. Origin of ocean waves

1.     storms and their effect of wave size

2.     the “Force” scale

3.     Analyze current wave data from the web

         B. Propagation of ocean waves

1.     wave velocity vs wavelenth

2.     deep and shallow water wave velocities

3.     breaking waves

4.     refraction, reflection, diffraction

5.     waves and surfing

C. Effect of waves on the coastal zone (Beach, River of Sand)

1.     Winter and summer beaches (high energy and low energy)

2.     Longshore transport of sand

3.     Harbors, seawalls, and other beach structures